Ford 7E5Z-5484-A
Stabilizer Bar Bushing, Front

The first step for sway bar bushing front suspension maintenance requires users to set the steering wheel at straight-ahead and turn the ignition OFF. Detach the steering column shaft joint cover bolts at the bottom and pull out the cover assembly. The safety of the Clock Spring depends on a static steering column shaft because any shaft rotation during disconnection could damage the component. Such damage requires complete removal and centering of the Clock Spring. Establish an index on the steering column shaft for assembly reference before detaching it from the steering gear using the bolt while maintaining alignment of the marks during reinstall and pulling the bolt to 25 Nm torque (18 lb-ft). The steering column shaft-to-dash seal needs removal before installing the seal onto the steering gear correctly while ensuring all retaining clips are secured to avoid seal damage. To proceed, place the vehicle in NEUTRAL position on a hoist system before unscrewing eight mounting screws that allow you to set aside the LH and RH splash shields. Uninstall both splash shields by removing their six pin-type retainers, yet maintain 7 Nm (62 lb-in) torque when reinstalling the parts. Additionally, if an underbody cover shield is present, remove its bolts doing the same torque installation before reinstalling. Discard the old tie-rod end cotter pins and nuts and use fresh parts which should be torqued to 48 Nm (35 lb-ft) before installing newly placed cotter pins. A Tie-Rod End Remover tool should be used to detach both wheel knuckle tie-rod ends with no hammer application, which would protect the components from damage. Discard the two catalytic converter-to-exhaust flexible pipe nuts and divide the exhaust flexible pipe before tightening new nuts to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft) torque setting. All-wheel drive vehicles require driveshaft-to-Power Transfer Unit (PTU) indexing before bolt removal of the four units to set aside the driveshaft for reinstallation at 70 Nm (52 lb-ft). Begin by removing the RH steering gear-to-subframe bolt while making it 107 Nm (79 lb-ft) tight at reinstallation time. Then proceed to remove the two LH steering gear-to-subframe bolts before positioning the steering gear to reach the sway bar LH bracket front nut. Re-torque to 107 Nm (79 lb-ft) when reinstalling. Discard the four sway bar bracket nuts before uninstalling both sway bar brackets. Reinstall the new bracket nuts at 48 Nm (35 lb-ft). Before torquing sway bar bracket nuts, use a suitable jack to raise the suspension until the hub center sits 402 mm (15.83 in) from the fender lip. This will prevent clamp load-induced bushing damage. Perform the reverse of this removal method during installation.

The first step for sway bar bushing front suspension maintenance requires users to set the steering wheel at straight-ahead and turn the ignition OFF. Detach the steering column shaft joint cover bolts at the bottom and pull out the cover assembly. The safety of the Clock Spring depends on a static steering column shaft because any shaft rotation during disconnection could damage the component. Such damage requires complete removal and centering of the Clock Spring. Establish an index on the steering column shaft for assembly reference before detaching it from the steering gear using the bolt while maintaining alignment of the marks during reinstall and pulling the bolt to 25 Nm torque (18 lb-ft). The steering column shaft-to-dash seal needs removal before installing the seal onto the steering gear correctly while ensuring all retaining clips are secured to avoid seal damage. To proceed, place the vehicle in NEUTRAL position on a hoist system before unscrewing eight mounting screws that allow you to set aside the LH and RH splash shields. Uninstall both splash shields by removing their six pin-type retainers, yet maintain 7 Nm (62 lb-in) torque when reinstalling the parts. Additionally, if an underbody cover shield is present, remove its bolts doing the same torque installation before reinstalling. Discard the old tie-rod end cotter pins and nuts and use fresh parts which should be torqued to 48 Nm (35 lb-ft) before installing newly placed cotter pins. A Tie-Rod End Remover tool should be used to detach both wheel knuckle tie-rod ends with no hammer application, which would protect the components from damage. Discard the two catalytic converter-to-exhaust flexible pipe nuts and divide the exhaust flexible pipe before tightening new nuts to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft) torque setting. All-wheel drive vehicles require driveshaft-to-Power Transfer Unit (PTU) indexing before bolt removal of the four units to set aside the driveshaft for reinstallation at 70 Nm (52 lb-ft). Begin by removing the RH steering gear-to-subframe bolt while making it 107 Nm (79 lb-ft) tight at reinstallation time. Then proceed to remove the two LH steering gear-to-subframe bolts before positioning the steering gear to reach the sway bar LH bracket front nut. Re-torque to 107 Nm (79 lb-ft) when reinstalling. Discard the four sway bar bracket nuts before uninstalling both sway bar brackets. Reinstall the new bracket nuts at 48 Nm (35 lb-ft). Before torquing sway bar bracket nuts, use a suitable jack to raise the suspension until the hub center sits 402 mm (15.83 in) from the fender lip. This will prevent clamp load-induced bushing damage. Perform the reverse of this removal method during installation.

The first step for sway bar bushing front suspension maintenance requires users to set the steering wheel at straight-ahead and turn the ignition OFF. Detach the steering column shaft joint cover bolts at the bottom and pull out the cover assembly. The safety of the Clock Spring depends on a static steering column shaft because any shaft rotation during disconnection could damage the component. Such damage requires complete removal and centering of the Clock Spring. Establish an index on the steering column shaft for assembly reference before detaching it from the steering gear using the bolt while maintaining alignment of the marks during reinstall and pulling the bolt to 25 Nm torque (18 lb-ft). The steering column shaft-to-dash seal needs removal before installing the seal onto the steering gear correctly while ensuring all retaining clips are secured to avoid seal damage. To proceed, place the vehicle in NEUTRAL position on a hoist system before unscrewing eight mounting screws that allow you to set aside the LH and RH splash shields. Uninstall both splash shields by removing their six pin-type retainers, yet maintain 7 Nm (62 lb-in) torque when reinstalling the parts. Additionally, if an underbody cover shield is present, remove its bolts doing the same torque installation before reinstalling. Discard the old tie-rod end cotter pins and nuts and use fresh parts which should be torqued to 48 Nm (35 lb-ft) before installing newly placed cotter pins. A Tie-Rod End Remover tool should be used to detach both wheel knuckle tie-rod ends with no hammer application, which would protect the components from damage. Discard the two catalytic converter-to-exhaust flexible pipe nuts and divide the exhaust flexible pipe before tightening new nuts to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft) torque setting. All-wheel drive vehicles require driveshaft-to-Power Transfer Unit (PTU) indexing before bolt removal of the four units to set aside the driveshaft for reinstallation at 70 Nm (52 lb-ft). Begin by removing the RH steering gear-to-subframe bolt while making it 107 Nm (79 lb-ft) tight at reinstallation time. Then proceed to remove the two LH steering gear-to-subframe bolts before positioning the steering gear to reach the sway bar LH bracket front nut. Re-torque to 107 Nm (79 lb-ft) when reinstalling. Discard the four sway bar bracket nuts before uninstalling both sway bar brackets. Reinstall the new bracket nuts at 48 Nm (35 lb-ft). Before torquing sway bar bracket nuts, use a suitable jack to raise the suspension until the hub center sits 402 mm (15.83 in) from the fender lip. This will prevent clamp load-induced bushing damage. Perform the reverse of this removal method during installation.