When you have cleaned cylinder head and its valves coupled with inspection, you will be in a position to determine how much work should be done to your valves as you embark on overhauling your engine. If the Engine has been overheated really bad one can bet that the cylinder head is warped or pulled and should take time to look for this. First, one should remove old gasket material and sealing compound from the face of the cylinder head, also do the same with the carbon deposits in the combustion chamber and ports, finally, clean the head with a suitable solvent. After that, remove thick layers of carbon on the valves if any, then scrub the valve heads and the stems with power operated wire brush. Inspect the head for cracks, swellings which may indicate leakage of coolant and other signs of damage, and if cracks exist, a new cylinder head should be procured. To check for warpage of the cylinder head gasket surface, using a straight edge and see the extent of distortion with feeler gauges and this is compared with factory set value. To check the condition of valve seats in each combustion chamber and if the seats are heavily pitted, cracked or burned they will have to be replaced or re-cut. If slightly pitted, the following procedure may be adopted: tap the valve heads and seats with fine valve-grinding compound. If the valve guides are worn and the valve is moving from side to side new guides will have to be put in and the clearance in this case should be measured and then compared with values set for it. Valve guides can only be replaced by an engine overhaul specialist, while where the valve seats are to be re-cut this has to be done only after the guides have been replaced. These include pitting, burning, cracks and general wear on the head of the valves, as well as scoring and wear ridges on the valve stem; any valve with such characteristics must be replaced. If the valve looks okay then use the micrometer to check at least 3 points on the length of the valve stem; if there is a variation then that is wear in the valve and must be replaced. If valves are serviceable, they should be turned into their reference seats to assure metallurgically correct surface contact to increase the tightness of the seal necessary to prevent the leakage of gases as absorbs do not work on valves insufficiently seated; the more restrained the valve motion, the higher the leakage; lightly pitted or re-cut seats should be ground with superior quality fine grinding compound to avoid random surface impurities; badly burned or deeply pitted seats Valve grinding is done by dropping the cylinder head upside down on a bench by applying valve-grinding compound on the seat face and by using the suction grinding tool to grind this valve head to the seat in semi-rotating action to obtain the uninterrupted, smooth ring of light g Grey matt finish on both the valve and the seat. After grinding, it is necessary to remove all particles of the grinding compound with an appropriate cleaner before the assembled parts will be fitted again. Check and inspect the condition of the valve springs; check the free length of the springs with that on newly manufactured valve springs; replace the valve springs if any of the springs are damaged, distorted or have lost the tension. Inspect retainers and keepers for conditions of wear and cracks and replace such components as may exhibit signs of brittleness that may compound when the engine is in operation; noting that the valve spring lower seat stem oil seals should also be replaced any time they have been displaced. Last of all, inspect the cam followers.