If you own Ford and want to keep it in top shape, choosing OEM Pitman Arm is a smart move. They are precisely engineered and follow strict factory standards. They are made in advanced facilities that use cutting edge technology. Each part goes through thorough testing to confirm strength and safety, so you can trust it. FordPartsDeal.com gives you genuine Ford Pitman Arm at some of the affordable online prices without cutting quality. Every OEM Ford part includes the manufacturer's warranty, easy returns, and super-fast delivery. So why wait? Shop now and get your vehicle back to peak condition.
The Ford Pitman Arm is attached at the steering gear output shaft, which is the rotating component of the gear that is transformed into the force that moves the drag link and wheels. The company has been pursuing efficiency since 1903, producing Model Ts on a conveyor belt in 1913 and currently battery-powered F-150 Lightnings, evidence that Ford still is painstakingly worried about pragmatic development. These smart EcoBoost mills make a Ford jump over a red light without sounding like the old V8s. SYNC allows a teenager to voice command the phone to play loud playlists or make calls without having to stump their feet on screens. Co-Pilot 360 is looking down the road, hitting brakes or prodding the wheel before trouble gets out of control, and the cabin tech does not seem gimmicky. Highly importantly, steering hardware such as the Ford Pitman Arm has an extended life cycle due to the balanced chassis geometry under the reduced engine loads as well as the intelligent traction control. Some have a greased Pitman Arm in the crossover and others in the work truck; but regardless of the model, you can be confident in the greasy Pitman Arm that the wheel feel is tight. And when it does wear, replacing a Pitman Arm is a simple task provided you do not disregard the rules of safety. Mark the wheels, use stands to lift the front of your Ford, and draw a line across the sector shaft and arm to keep track of the orientation. Unpop the cotter pin, turn off the drag-link nut, and crack the taper with a puller. Just back off the sector nut, press the arm out, line up the new splines, tighten everything, pin it, grease the joint, and lock the steering lock by cycling it.