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The Ford Explorer took over from the two-door Bronco II by entering the market in 1990 to focus on family-oriented four-door SUVs. The Explorer's engineering platform draws power from the Ford Ranger chassis design to provide solid durability components united with top-tier operational capabilities. RWD served as the base configuration for the first-generation Ford Explorer yet customers had the optional AWD system using a Borg-Warner transfer case that enhanced grip under diverse conditions. The powertrain selection has progressed throughout different Explorer generations to achieve improved effectiveness and greater capability. Between 1995 and 2001 the second-generation Ford Explorer integrated enhanced braking systems with disc brakes and it received an advanced four-wheel-drive (4WD) system which delivered better maneuvering potential. Black B- and D-pillars distinguish the Ford Explorer design because they were added as custom features during its production. Different Ford Explorer trim levels arrived on the market with the XLS as the base version followed by the XLT and Eddie Bauer models created to satisfy diverse customer needs. The use of genuine Ford components for Explorer vehicles makes perfect sense because it delivers peak performance and extended longevity alongside exact vehicle fit specifications for safe multiyear operation.

Ford Explorer issues group into air conditioning, steering hydraulics, and intake sealing. In the air conditioning system, leaking O-rings or a cracked AC condenser cause refrigerant loss. The Explorer may blow warm air and leave oil stains at coupling joints. Use fluorescent dye, inspect under the radiator support, and replace the AC condenser or seals on the Explorer. In steering hydraulics, old fluid contaminates the power steering pump and gearbox. The Ford Explorer can growl while turning and display heavy effort at parking speeds. Flush the system, verify flow, and replace the power steering pump on the Explorer if noisy. For engine performance, intake leaks at the intake manifold gasket create unmetered air. The Ford Explorer may idle rough, misfire, or stall, with a stored lean code. Smoke test, inspect vacuum lines, and install a new intake manifold gasket to restore trims. Finish with a road test so the Ford Explorer runs cool, steers quietly, and accelerates cleanly. Verify AC pressure with gauges, evacuate, and recharge to factory weight after sealing repairs. Bleed the steering system, then recheck for metal, noise, and assist stability after service.

FordPartsDeal.com offers you the stress-free shopping for OEM Ford Explorer parts, including Headlights & Lighting, Transmission. Our products are brand new, and we do not deal with aftermarket or second-hand parts. Through our online Ford Explorer catalog, you can easily find the satisfactory fit of your vehicle. Prices are competitive, and this makes you save in terms of quality. Our team of specialists provides the friendly and trustworthy service in all parts, like Driveline & Axles, of Ford Explorer. We are also distributed through our many warehouses which ship quickly, to have your order to you in a short period. Use the VIN checker to have the right Ford Explorer fit. It is easy to make returns.

Ford Explorer Parts Questions & Answers

  • Q: How to service and repair the alternator on Ford Explorer?
    A: Service and repair of the alternator requires starting with battery disconnection. The FEAD belt tensioner must rotate counterclockwise before placing the front end accessory drive belt to the side. Separate the protective cover from the unit then eliminate the generator B+ terminal nut while discarding it as you must tighten the new nut to 8 Nm (71 lb-in) during assembly. Start by disconnecting both the generator B+ terminal along with the two electrical connectors before removing three bolts on the generator. Reinstall these bolts by tightening them to 47 Nm (35 lb-ft). Before reinstalling both parts you can remove the nut and generator pulley and tighten it to 109 Nm (80 lb-ft). The radial adapter reinstall requires removal of its cap and nut whereas the adapter should be set aside before re-torquing it to 11 Nm (8 lb-ft). The last step includes installing a new generator B+ terminal nut while performing the removal procedure in reverse order.
  • Q: How to Change the Rear Bumper on a Ford Explorer?
    A: The first step to replace or remove a rear bumper cover on Explorer and Mountaineer and Explorer Sport Trac is to uninstall both tail lamp assemblies. The next action involves removing the two bolts that secure the rear bumper cover bracket while tightening them to 11 Nm (8 lb-ft) torque specification after installation. Start by removing both rear bumper bracket bolts before taking out the ten bumper cover pin-type retainers. The rear parking aid sensor electrical connector needs disconnection only if the vehicle has this feature. The rear bumper cover should be extracted with care by lifting its outer corners while you keep the cover from twisting so you can pull it straight upwards. Follow the removal steps backwards for installing the new bumper cover and transferring component pieces along the process.
  • Q: How should one service the catalytic converter to ensure proper installation and avoid damage on Ford Explorer?
    A: When servicing the catalytic converter do not apply oil or grease-based lubricants to the isolators because it will deteriorate the rubber and possibly cause the exhaust hanger insulator to separate from the exhaust hanger bracket while the vehicle operates. The torque prevailing design of exhaust fasteners needs new replacement parts with matching original numbers together with exact torque values to maintain exhaust component retention. Begin by placing the vehicle in NEUTRAL position while hoisting the vehicle before using a suitable supporting jack to hold the exhaust system. The exhaust clamp needs to be tightened only after ensuring the tab of the muffler outlet pipe fits inside the notched extension pipe. After unthreading the extension pipe to muffler assembly clamp nut and taking out the extension pipe isolator, secure all components with a torque of 48 Nm (35 ft. lbs.). The technician needs to remove muffler to catalytic converter assembly bolts, springs, and flag nuts, keeping the flag nuts for disposal before detaching the muffler assembly isolators during installation by tightening them to 40 Nm (30 ft. lbs.). The procedure starts by using a jack to support the transmission. The next steps include the removal of heat shield bolts which should be tightened to 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs) upon reinstalling and extraction of the plastic shield positioned on the right side of the crossmember which should be secured with 9 Nm (80 inch lbs). The procedure requires bottom-up removal of the four upper and four lower crossmember bolts tightened to 70 Nm (52 ft. lbs.) for each before removing the catalytic converter support isolator to transmission mount bolt (tightening to 90 Nm (66 ft. lbs.) for final installation). Removing the transmission nuts along with the transmission crossmember requires you to disconnect the catalyst monitor sensor and heated oxygen sensor electrical connectors. Clean the connecting surfaces on the manifold outlet flare and catalytic converter inlet flare while setting the catalytic converter near the rear outlet to prevent damage of flares and studs. When installing a fresh catalytic converter assembly the catalyst monitor and heated oxygen sensors must be removed and the threads of these sensors need lubrication with anti-seize compound before they are put into position. Tightly install the exhaust manifold stud nuts using 40 Nm torque before you reinstall them after discarding the catalytic converter unit. After aid with the replacement process, begin starting the engine before inspecting the exhaust system for any signs of leakage and making necessary adjustments to the system alignment.
  • Q: How to service and repair the ignition coil on Ford Explorer?
    A: A proper service or repair of an ignition coil requires disconnecting the ground battery cable followed by separating the ignition coil electrical connector and the radio noise suppressor electrical connector. A proper installation of spark plug wires requires both twisting and upward pulling the wire boots because this technique safeguards the wires from potential damage and ensures correct terminal connection. Wires should be marked for easier installation. You should pull upward by twisting the tabs after they have been squeezed to remove the six spark plug wires. The next step involves unfastening the four bolts which secure the ignition coil. Before reinstallation users should apply silicone dielectric compound to the ignition coil boots while tightening all bolts to 6 Nm (53 lb-in).